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TITLE Υλικά αγαθά σε αέναο ταξίδι: η περίπτωση της vestura στοv βενετοκρατούμενο Χάνδακα
AUTHOR Markaki Tatiana
SECTION b
LANGUAGE Ελληνικά / Greek
PUBLISH DATE 30.12.2017
KEYWORDS πολιτισμικές αλληλεπιδράσεις, επίδειξη, vesture, πολυτελή ενδύματα, Βενετική μόδα, 17ος αιώνας, Βενετοκρατούμενος Χάνδακας, cittadini, ελίτ, νοταριακές πηγές, ινβεντάριο, υλικός πολιτισμός, υλικά αγαθά, πολιτισμική ώσμωση
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Abstract


This pa­per in­ves­ti­gates prac­tices of cul­tural ex­change us­ing sev­en­teenth-cen­tury Venet­ian Crete and its cap­i­tal city Can­dia (mod­ern Her­ak­lion) as a case study. It ex­plores the ma­te­r­ial goods of the dowries as­signed to brides dur­ing the pe­riod 1600-1645, fo­cus­ing on the Venet­ian fe­male gar­ment ves­tura

The pa­per se­lec­tively draws on un­pub­lished archival ma­te­r­ial col­lected in the no­tary archives of Can­dia of the State Archives of Venice. Mar­riage agree­ments and in­ven­to­ries of mov­able prop­erty demon­strate a cer­tain con­sump­tion be­hav­iour dur­ing mar­riage that en­ables the move­ment of ma­te­r­ial goods in var­i­ous di­rec­tions: up­wards, down­wards, through dif­fer­ent time pe­ri­ods, ge­o­graph­i­cal en­ti­ties and so­cioe­co­nomic strata.

A ma­jor pa­ra­me­ter ex­am­ined in this pa­per is the ques­tion of the role of the ves­tura in the dowry. The Venet­ian ves­tura, an ex­quis­ite type of gown with skirt and bust, made of lux­u­ri­ous ma­te­ri­als and in var­i­ous styles, trav­elled from the me­trop­o­lis to Can­dia. There it be­came the most valu­able ma­te­r­ial ob­ject in sev­en­teenth-cen­tury dowries and was adopted by the elite and the so­cial stra­tum of cit­ta­dini as a fash­ion­able item suit­able for dis­play. 

By trans­fer­ring this lux­u­ri­ous gar­ment to their daugh­ters, the mid­dle stra­tum of cit­ta­dini (es­pe­cially its up­per seg­ment of pow­er­ful pro­fes­sion­als) at­tempted to em­u­late the lifestyle of the up­per class. Through this kind of con­spic­u­ous con­sump­tion they pre­sented them­selves as no­bili, whereas they for­mally be­longed to the non-elite, in the same way as the elite of Can­dia had ap­pro­pri­ated ma­te­r­ial goods as­signed by the elite fam­i­lies in Venice it­self. 

The case of the ves­tura re­veals a bidi­rec­tional move­ment and il­lus­trates that the cul­tural ex­change be­tween the me­trop­o­lis and the “colony” was the re­sult of com­plex hor­i­zon­tal and ver­ti­cal processes of cul­tural trans­fer.